World Cultures (Ea8269f)

Handwritten notes on Xochicalco by Adela Breton.Draft of text for publication University of Pennsylvania Dept of Archaeology Transactions, Vol II Part I 1906 p. 51 Black ink, written on one side of the paper, with pencil corrections and additions.

World Cultures (Eb300), chullu, Juliaca Fair

Face chullu, balaclava, knitted in acrylic yarn, with tassel on crown. Knitted flat to eye level, seam sewn up, face grafted in, then completed as a flat piece and seamed. White and orange, with 'kuku' motif on cheeks, and white and coloured bands. Thin eye holes and a gap for the mouth. Tassle at the tip of the crown. Orange wool with a white face. Facial features are defined in brown wool. Grey diamond pattern on each cheek. 4 knitted white lines at the neck, arranged horizontally in pairs. There are 3 coloured bands where the bottom of a hat would sit- navy blue, then pink, then white.

World Cultures (Eb980)

Mola panel or reverse appliqué embroidery. Panels used to make the blouse worn by women: also now for sale to tourists. Three layers of cotton, red, orage, black, cut and stitched to make geometric pattern, with applied patches of yellow, blue, green, pink adding to the design. One edge bordered with green, yellow and black with rickrack braid. Hand sewn. Bottom layer marked with stitching. Old and faded.

World Cultures (Eb981)

Mola panel or reverse appliqué embroidery. Panels used to make the blouse worn by women: also now for sale to tourists. Three layers of cotton, red, orange, blue, cut and stitched to make abstract pattern of two large figures with animal and bird figures in and around them, with applied patches of green, dark blue, yellow and pink adding to the design. All 4 sides turned and stitched down. Hand sewn. Bottom layer marked with stitching on reverse. New.

World Cultures (Eb941)

Chullu, hat, knitted in red and white acrylic yarn, knitted flat with sewn seam, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasseled ties. Possibly machine knitted, in stocking stitch. Pattern of 7 red bulls, with squared reversible emphasis key and hook design, with flower on earflaps. Knitted by campesinos in the countryside but the stall-holder knew no more than that.

World Cultures (Eb943)

Chullu, hat, knitted in coloured acrylic, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasseled ties, and an exaggereated long crown or tail. Probably machine knitted, flat with sewn seam, in stocking stitch with crochet border. Black ground, with pattern of stripes in matizado or blended colours in white/pink and white/green tones, with wider bands of motifs inspired by traditional warp weave designs. At the centre a wider band of stylised dancers.

World Cultures (Eb942)

Chullu, hat, knitted in coloured acrylic yarn, knitted flat with sewn seam, with ear flaps, tassel on crown and tasseled ties. Handknitted, in stocking stick with crochet border. Pattern of stripes in matizado or blended rainbow colours. Wide bands with reverse emphasis key pattern, zig zag, flowers and the wording DE. R. [recuerdo, souvenir] LA PAZ. BOLIVIA., divided by rows of blanded rainbow colours.

World Cultures (Eb944)

Chullu, hat, knitted in commercial acrylic yarn, knitted flat with sewn seam, with folding brim, tassel on crown and tasseled ties, and an exaggerated long crown or tail. Machine knit in stocking stitch. Black ground with bands of motifs inspired by traditional warp weave designs. Bands of matizado or blended stripes, with a wide band of lettered design LAPAZLAPAZLAPAZ.

World Cultures (Eb945)

Chullu, hat, handknitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasselled ties. Crown knittedon 5 fine needles in stocking stitch with 4 bands of flowers on a blue ground, and white llamas at top, with a diamond design, kuku (Aymara), on the earflaps. Earflaps knitted separately and sewn to crown. Woven border, ribete, with concentric diamond design, nawi, eyes (Quechua), said to protect against evil.

World Cultures (Eb946)

Chullu, hat, knitted in coloured acrylic yarn, with earflaps sewn on, tassels on crown and tasseled ribbon ties. Crown worked in 6 bands of motifs contained in individual coloured squares, some striped, the squares decreasing in size as the crown decreases to a point. Motifs include condors, birds with flowers and olive branches, typical of northern Potosi. Between the squares bands are narrow bands of white, rose, blue, fuschia, green, scarlet. Handknitted by young men, in 3 pieces, crown and 2 earflaps. Crown knitted circularly on 5 fine needles of wire stripped from the inside of a car tyre. Worked densely in stocking stitch, with long colour floats picked up on reverse, creating a rigidity the wearer wants. Ear flaps knitted on 3 needles so they lie flat. tassels added to flat braids of oblique interlacing 16 strand bifurcating to 2x8 strand., different colours on each earflap. Little fading of colours means it is almost new.

World Cultures (Eb947)

Chullu, hat, knitted in commercial acrylic yarn, with ear flaps sewn on, small tassel on crown and tasseled braid ties. Crown worked in 5 bands of chequerboard squares in black, blue, white and green, overlaid with motifs of olive branches, birds, and diagonal hook design. Chequerboard bands separated with white, black and red bands. Handknitted by young men, in 3 pieces, crown and 2 earflaps. Crown knitted circularly on 5 fine needles of wire stripped from the inside of a car tyre. Worked densely in stocking stitch, with long colour floats picked up on reverse, creating a rigidity the wearer wants. Ear flaps knitted on 3 needles so they lie flat. tassels added to flat braids of oblique interlacing 32 strand bifurcating to 2x18 strand, red with pompom tassels.

World Cultures (Eb948)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with ear flaps , tassel on crown and tasseled braid ties. Crown worked in 5 bands of pattern, 2 narrow with blue ground and white snowflake motif, 3 wide, with livid green snail design/reverse emphasis key design arranged in chevrons, worked over striped multicoloured ground in yellow, blue, green, pink, red and black. Tassels added to two 8 strand oblique interlace braid, one yellow, one black. Knitted by a young man from Lagunillas. May have intended to wear it in the tin'ku fighting at the Fiesta de la Cruz.

World Cultures (Eb949)

Chullu, hat, knitted in handspun sheep's wool in natural brown and white, stocking stitch, with earflaps and green braid ties. Crown worked on 5 needles. Chequerboard pattern with decreasing squares over 6 bands, alternate ground colour with motif of diamonds and olive branches worked in contrast colour. A traditional design. Earflaps in purl so they lie flap.

World Cultures (Eb950)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasseled braid ties, tassels with glass disc pompoms. Crown knitted on 5 needles. Crown worked in 5 motif bands, including condors and olive branch diamonds on yellow fround, an reverse emphasis key design on white ground, with narrow solid colour bands between. Earflap design of key motif. Tassels made with fringed glass discs attached to flat decorative braids. Sold by Julio Tiklia Mamani, who had several to sell, this one about a year old so out of fashion. About one month's work to knit on wire needles stripped from car tyres.

World Cultures (Eb951)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasseled braid ties. Crown knitted on 5 wire needles stripped from car tyres. Crown worked in 4 motif bands on white ground, with plain narrow bands between. Alternating bands of reverse emphasis key motif laid out in chevrons, and olive branch diamonds with condors. Ties have flat wool discs on 80 strand two colour flat braids in oblique interlacing dividing into 2x40 strand braids. Bought at the Sunday feria from Miguel Condori Pecacho, who reckoned to knit an inch per day, one month to knit the whole chullu. Seam near the top deals with a bulge that spoiled the shape of the chullu

World Cultures (Eb952)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasseled ties. Crown knitted in 4 bands divided into 4 squares, with narrow patterned bands between them. The squares alternate white or yellow with multi coloured striped grounds, with motif in contrast colours. Motifs include condors, flowers, olive branch diamonds and key motifs. Purchased from Julian Condori Rojas, who was wearing it inside out to preserve the good face for more important occasions.

World Cultures (Eb953)

Chullu, hat, knitted in homespun sheep's wool in natural brown and white, with earflaps, no tassels or ties. Crown knitted on 5 needles in stocking stitch, earflaps in purl for rigidity. Crown worked in white on a brown ground, with 2 bands of stars and diamonds, a band of birds and animals, then bands of randomly placed animal and band motifd with a final band of stars. Earflap design in 2 halves, alternating colours. Sold by an old man from Japu, near Uncia.

World Cultures (Eb954)

Chullu, hat, knitted in coloured acrylic yarn, with earflaps sewn on, tassels on crown and tasseled ribbon ties. Crown knitted in 4 wide bands in chequerboard pattern with bird and geometric motifs, separated by narrow zigzag bands. Chequerboard pattern of alternating squares of green/yellow and blue/white. Bird and X motifs knitted on the chequerboard in pink and red. crown tassel with small pompoms, earflap ties have flat tassels on re-used warp-patterned hat braid.

World Cultures (Eb955)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps and tasselled braid ties. Cown knitted in stocking stitch with 4 wide bands of bird, turkey, and hump-back deer motifs, on multicoloured stripes in matizado or blended rainbow colours. Narrow dividing bands with linear motifs, with olive leaf motif on earflaps.

World Cultures (Eb956)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps. Crown knitted in stocking stick, with spiral decreasing at the top of the crown. Repeated motif of olive branches and flowers (mayu t'ika or river/flower), in 11 bands in altenating colours of white or red on a navy blue ground.

World Cultures (Eb957)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasselled ties. Crown knitted in stocking stitch, with 3 wide bands with reverse empasis, key, male and female dancers, and barley grains (siwara tostado) motifs, typical Puno Lakeside motifs. Also 2 narrow bands of alternating coloured squares, coppied from Aymara warp-faced weaving, called kotu. Motif bands separated by rainbow blended bands, matizado. Earflaps knitted first and crown knitted onto them.

World Cultures (Eb958)

Chullu, hat, knitted in hand-spun sheep's wool, with earflaps and small braid on crown. Dyes are non-colour fast aniline dyes sold in local markets. Crown worked in stocking stitch, with 5 bands of pattern motifs, widest male and female dancers, with 5 bands of alternate coloured squares, kotu, and 10 bands of single row or narrow bands in plain colour.

World Cultures (Eb959)

Chullu, hat, crocheted in sheep and alpaca wool yarns in natural colours, with earflaps, tassel at crown and tassel ties. Double crochet stitch, with 4 wide bands of reverse emphasis key, white bulls on dark ground, white llamas or alpacas on dark ground, and white / camel interlocking triangle motifs.

World Cultures (Eb960)

Chullu, hat, knitted in hand-spun sheep's wool, with earflaps. Dyed with non-colour fast aniline dyes sold in local markets. Knitted in 3 sections, crown and earflaps, and grafted together. 2 wide bands of diamond motif, with 8 bands of plain and alternating square, kotu, bands.

World Cultures (Eb961)

Chullu, hat, knitted in handspun alpaca, with earflaps, tassel on crown and tasselled ties. Natural shades of alpaca. Crown knitted in stocking stitch, ear flaps in purl, grafted together. Sized to fit a gringo tourist. 3 wide bands of interlocking chevrons, sigzag with step design, a form of river mayu, and reverse emphasis key motifs, with narrow bands of plain colour at top of crown.

World Cultures (Eb962)

Chullu, hat, knitted in fine hand-spun alpaca by Alejandrina Ari Cutipa, with earflaps, long tassel on crown and tasselled ties. Crown knitted in stocking stitch, with 2 wide bands of scissor and concentric diamond, and diamond lattice, with narrower bands of scissor, tijera and diamond, kuku; alternating colour contrast squares, kotu; chevrons (backbone of a fish), kili; six-petal flowers, sojta suyus in Quechua, (6 villages or descent lines).

World Cultures (Eb963)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with sun visor.Crown knitted in stocking stick, white with 3 narrow colour bands, and line and chevron design in blackkberry stitch in neon yarns. Ribbed sun visor in white with pink edging.

World Cultures (Eb964)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with sun visor. Crown knitted in stocking stitch, red with bands of pink, blue and green with barley grain motif in white, and line and chevron design in blackberry stitch in neon colours.Ribbed sun visor in white, with pink and green edging. Unfinished, on bicycle spoke needles.

World Cultures (Eb965)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, with sun visor. Crown knitted in stocking stitch, decreasing to top, coffee brown with a wide band of neon diamond lattice pattern in ?blackberry stitch, with a flower in neon ?blackberry stitch on the long tail, knitted upside down to hang the right way up. Ribbed sun visor in white, with coffee, magenta, red and rose rows on edge, with looped row worked in somehow. Unfinished: stitches of the top on a safety pin, to be gathered up and covered by a large pompom. Sold with 5 bicycle spoke needles, one lost down a drain at the market.

World Cultures (Eb966)

Miniature chullu, hat, knitted by Livia Sayri Tupac in scraps of acrylic yarn. Miniature version of Eb957, no. 18. Knitted in stocking stitch, in bright pink, blues, green and white, with 2 bands of reverse emphasis key and chevron motifs.

World Cultures (Eb967)

Miniature chullu, hat, knitted by Livia Sayri Tupac in scraps of acrylic yarn. Miniature version of Eb957, no. 18. Knitted in stocking stitch, in bright pink, greens, mauve and orange, with 2 bands of reverse emphasis key and chevron motifs

World Cultures (Eb968)

Figure of Diablo, the Devil, knitted in acrylic yarn. Knitted in stocking stitch, with black face and trousers, green top, white and orange skirt (pollerin), brown boots, yellow cape (capa), blue horns, embroidered face with mouth open representing the dance mask, and carrying pink and yellow handkerchiefs. Knitted in bits, sewn up, stuffed, and sewn togther. Diablo represents a character from the Diablada dance performed at Candeleria, Candlemas, 2nd February.

World Cultures (Eb969)

Figure of China Morena, knitted in acrylic yarn. Knitted in stocking stick, with black embroidered face, brown top, green skirt, pink trousers, black boots, and a brown bowler hat. Maroon shawl on Back carrying a blue-faced baby wearing a chullu. China Morena or Chinita represents the consort of Diablo, or a character from the dance of the Morenos or Moors.

World Cultures (Eb970)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic and hand-spun sheep's wool yarn, with a visor and pompom. Knitted for a 7 year old boy. Knitted by Vibrana Quispe de Calsi of Sancayuni Suyu, in stocking stitch, with a white wool ground and acrylic coloured bands. Three bands of small motifs set within wide rainbow sections. Informant Fermina Calsin Quispe said flowers are t'ika (Quechua) zigzags isi, whilst Endosia Pacompia Quispe described them as t'ika con camino, flowers along a path; camino, path; and estrellas, stars. Rainbow stripes are arco iris. Ribbed visor knitted separately and sewn to crown.

World Cultures (Eb971)

Chullu, hat, knitted by Fermina Calsin Quispe, of Puno, for her husband Victoriano, in acrylic yarn, with earflaps and small tassel on crown. Ground of alternate navy and maroon bands, with bands of motifs in bright colours: dancers; birds; flowers; flower with leaf zigzag; kotu; reversed flower with leaf zigzag; flower with Z; flowers; dancers; reversed flower with Z; birds; flower

World Cultures (Eb972)

Chullu, hat, knitted in acrylic yarn, in stocking stitch with large pompom in 3-ply yarn, split and re-spun to make 2-ply for crown. Fine needles to knit this style said to be made from wire from car tyres. Wide red band with 6 bands of motif, divided by narrow black band: leaf and flower; birds and motifs; leaf and flower; birds and motifs; leaf and flower; zigzag: plain white crown. Possibly knitted by 14 year old Segundino Quispe Quispe, though the tuck taking in the brim suggests he inherited it. Men knit, and boys learn from age of 8. Grades of chullu: pintay chullu (painted) is red all over, worn by married men; chullu oreia (ear) is Puno type with earflaps, bought and worn for the cold; chullu soltero (unmarried) red and white. Few men now wear the red.

World Cultures (Eb973)

Chullu, hat, unfinished, knitted in grey sheep's wool and coloured acrylic, in stocking stitch, on needles made from wires binding bundles of clothing that the Club de Madres receives via the priest. Knitted by 14 year old Segundino Quispe Quispe, for sale to tourists; no Taquileno would wear this quality or colour. Knitted with 2 bands, of black leaf on grey, and pink dancers on black, the motifs copied from chullus that sold well

World Cultures (Eb974)

Small bag or purse, knitted in handspun sheep's wool on 5 cactus spine needles. Unfinished, knitted to sell to tourists, with a black llama on a white ground. Purchased from Luisa Zuleta.

World Cultures (Eb975)

Manta, shawl or carrying cloth, two webs sewn together across the centre. Handwoven on a vertical or horizontal ground loom. Each web with a striped band at each end in natural, reds, pinks and yellow. At the end, wide and narrow plain and narrow patterned bands, at the centre a wide band of narrow warp faced stripes, divided by plain red bands, with a wide zigzag motif band at the centre. Rest of the manta plain brown. Two webs joined by a randa using lengths of mauve, yellow, pink white thread. Central bands are symmetrical, the end bands differ slightly. Selvedge slightly worn in places.

World Cultures (Eb976)

Manta, shawl or carrying cloth, two webs sewn together across the centre. Handwoven on a vertical or horizontal ground loom. Each web with a striped band at each end in natural, reds, pinks and yellow. At the end, wide and narrow plain bands in pink and yellow, at the centre a wide band of warp-faced birds and bats in pink on brown ground. Rest of the manta plain brown. Two webs joined by a rand using lengths of different coloured yarns. The bands all outlined with a handsewn zig-zag in cream yarn.